had a glass of porter: for this modest repast we paid eleven
shillings!

We slept on board, had another walk on shore after breakfast the
following morning, and about twelve o'clock set off for Lyttleton,
the final end of our voyaging, which we reached in about twenty
hours.

The scenery is very beautiful all along the coast, but the
navigation is both dangerous and difficult. It was exceedingly
cold, and Lyttleton did not look very inviting; we could not get in
at all near the landing-place, and had to pay 2 pounds to be rowed
ashore in an open boat with our luggage. I assure you it was a very
"bad quarter of an hour" we passed in that boat; getting into it was
difficult enough. The spray dashed over us every minute, and by the
time we landed we were quite drenched, but a good fire at the hotel
and a capital lunch soon made us all right again; besides, in the
delight of being actually at the end of our voyage no annoyance or
discomfort was worth a moment's thought. F--- had a couple of
hours' work rushing backwards and forwards to the Custom House,
clearing our luggage, and arranging for some sort of conveyance to
take us over the hills. The great tunnel through these "Port Hills"
(which divide Lyttleton from Christchurch, the capital of
Canterbury) is only half finished, but it seems wonderful that so
expensive and difficult an engineering work could be undertaken by
such an infant colony.

At last a sort of shabby waggonette was forthcoming, and about three
o'clock we started from Lyttleton, and almost immediately began to
ascend the zig-zag. It was a tremendous pull for the poor horses,