the mountains, it rained hard, and enveloped as I was in the cloak or
mantle of the Pacha, I feared I should be taken for a Turk and shot at,
or that my neck would be broken in the difficult passes of the
mountains; but in this case the excellent animal I rode served me most
faithfully and never made a blunder. Oh Maria [Footnote: His
stepsister.]! and ye lovers of horseflesh, how you would have praised
and petted this animal had you ridden him; pitch dark on my return,
nearly perpendicular flights of stone and not a false step! Excellent
beast, your master the Pacha knows your value. I got back about 10 P.M.
wet through nearly--the Pacha's cloak served me well though. The tent of
Osman Bey received me and we found some excellent rum to season my
sherbet with. The next day about one o'clock we started on horse-back to
attack the strong position of Gambus, two regiments of regulars, 1000
each, had gone on in the morning. My object in going with the Turks was
a mixed one, curiosity and hope of doing some good in preventing
bloodshed. But there was no need for any personage of that humane
disposition, the Greeks themselves were so full of humanity that they
decamped bag, baggage, and colours a quarter of an hour before the
leading Albanians entered the place of Cambus. I shall only remark that
it stood on the top of a mountain; only to be reached by the most narrow
and difficult passes, and had the Greeks intended to fight at all, they
never could have had a better opportunity.

'The day after I left Canea in a small boat I had hired to take me to
Karabusa. It was a fine calm morning, but when we had gone about two
miles along shore a very heavy gale came on, our sails were blown away
and with great difficulty we reached Cape Spada, rowing for two hours
within fifty yards of the shore, and could not reach it. We lay in a
level with a rocky headland this night with but little to eat. The next
day we tried to get round Cape Spada but could not; the wind then