shifted to the northward and blew a hard gale. We were now wrecked among
the breakers at the bottom of the bay of Gonia. Thank God I reached the
dry land and was well taken care of at the monastery. There I found
Chrisophopulos and Vanilikeli, who escorted me to Castelli and from
thence to Karabusa.

'December 12.--At Canea. Find the Greeks here well contented with the
Turks. No taxes or impositions get laid on, in fact at present the
Greeks are better off than the Turks. The Spakiotes have not all
submitted. Three Spakiotes taken prisoners with their arms are made
Primates of their respective villages and members of the Council.

'December 13.--Left the ship in the cutter, in company with Signor
Capogropo and Mons. Corporal. Landed at Celivez, a surf on the beach,
all got wet, it was _sauve qui peut_ and we left our cloaks behind
us, which to people on the point of bivouacking for the night was not
really pleasant. But Signor Capogropo, though eighty-two years of age,
seemed to make so light of the matter that it was out of the question to
complain. Here we found horses sent for us to the camp, where I arrived
about ten o'clock having passed through a rich and beautiful country to
the village which, like all in Candia, gives a good idea of the ravages
of civil war. Here I found the Pacha and Osman Bey had established their
head-quarters. I was treated like a Pacha, boys attended to wait on me
with pipes, coffee, a barber, &c. I made my toilet in the morning
attended by seven or eight servants. Nothing can be better than the
manner in which these chiefs are conducting affairs in this country.

'June 2, 1831.--Left Malta for England, left my ship in Malta harbour in
the hands of new officers. Poor _Alligator_, I did not know I had
so much of the love of ships, no not ships, I knew that, but of men, in