Old Calabria by Norman Douglas
page 158 of 451 (35%)
page 158 of 451 (35%)
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marvellous than beautiful, like so many Byzantine productions; their
value is such that the parchment has now been declared a "national monument." It is sternly guarded, and if it is moved out of Rossano--as happened lately when it was exhibited at Grottaferrata--it travels in the company of armed carbineers. Still pursued by the flock of women, I took to examining the floor of this church, which contains tesselated marble pavements depicting centaurs, unicorns, lions, stags, and other beasts. But my contemplation of these choice relics was disturbed by irrelevant remarks on the part of the worldly females, who discovered in the head of the stag some subtle peculiarity that stirred their sense of humour. "Look!" said one of them to her neighbour. "He has horns. Just like your Pasquale." "Pasquale indeed! And how about Antonio?" I enquired whether they knew what kind of animals these were. "Beasts of the ancients. Beasts that nobody knows. Beasts that have horns--like certain Christians. . . ." From the terrace of green sward that fronts this ruined monastery you can see the little town of Corigliano, whose coquettish white houses lie in a fold of the hills. Corigliano--[Greek: xorion __hellaion] (land of olives): the derivation, if not correct, is at least appropriate, for it lies embowered in a forest of these trees. A gay place it was, in Bourbon times, with a ducal ruler of its own. Here, they say, the remnants of the Sybarites took refuge after the destruction of their |
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