up and scramble down. At the little town of Sarnen we ate eggs and drank
sour wine, and Mr. Moilliet, Fanny, and Harriet remounted their horses;
Mrs. Moilliet, Emily, Susan, and I went in a _char-a-banc_ of a
different construction; not sitting sideways, but on two phaeton seats,
one behind the other, facing the horses. Such jolting, such _trimming_
from side to side; but we were not overturned, and got out at the town
of Stanzstadt, where, after seeing in the dirtiest inn's dirtiest room a
girl with a tremendous black eye, besides the two with which nature had
favoured her, we took boat again about sunset, and had a two hours'
delicious rowing across the lake of Lucerne, which I prefer to every
other I have seen--the moon full and placid on the waters, the stars
bright in the deep blue sky, the town of Lucerne shadowed before us with
lights here and there in the windows. The air became still, and the sky
suddenly clouded over; thunder was heard; bright flashes of lightning
darted from behind the mountains and across the town, making it at
intervals distinctly visible for a moment. It was dark when we landed,
and we had to pass through two or three streets, servants, guides, bag,
and baggage, groping our way; and oh, wretched mortals, went to the
wrong place, and before we could reach the right one, down poured a
waterspout of a shower on our devoted heads and backs. In five minutes,
running as hard as we could, we were wet through; and Fanny, in crossing
the street and plucking at the guide's bundle for a cloak for me, was
nearly run over, but stood it; and, all dripping, we reached our inn, Le
Cheval Blanc. An hour spent in throwing off wet clothes and putting on
dry--tea, coffee--bed--bugs, and sleep, nevertheless.

We rejoined our landau and _caleche_ at Lucerne, and proceeded in them
to Zug, where there is a famous convent or _Frauenkloster_, which
escaped being destroyed during the Revolution, because the abbess and
nuns established a school for the female children of the neighbourhood,