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In the Heart of the Vosges - And Other Sketches by a "Devious Traveller" by Matilda Betham-Edwards
page 10 of 211 (04%)
I do not aver that my country-people have never heard of Gerardmer, but
certainly those who stray hither are few and far between. Fortunately for
the lover of nature no English writer has as yet popularized the Vosges.
An Eden-like freshness pervades its valleys and forests, made ever
musical with cascades, a pastoral simplicity characterizes its
inhabitants. Surely in no corner of beautiful France can any one worn out
in body or in brain find more refreshment and tranquil pleasure!

It is only of late years that the fair broad valley of Gerardmer and its
lovely little lake have been made accessible by railway. Indeed, the
popularity of the Vosges and its watering-places dates from the late
Franco-German war. Rich French valetudinarians, and tourists generally,
have given up Wiesbaden and Ems from patriotic motives, and now spend
their holidays and their money on French soil. Thus enterprise has been
stimulated in various quarters, and we find really good accommodation in
out-of-the-way spots not mentioned in guide-books of a few years' date.
Gerardmer is now reached by rail in two hours from Epinal, on the great
Strasburg line, but those who prefer a drive across country may approach
it from Plombieres, Remiremont, Colmar and Muenster, and other attractive
routes. Once arrived at Gerardmer, the traveller will certainly not care
to hurry away. No site in the Vosges is better suited for excursionizing
in all directions, and the place itself is full of quiet charm. There is
wonderful sweetness and solace in these undulating hill-sides, clothed
with brightest green, their little tossing rivers and sunny glades all
framed by solemn hills--I should rather say mountains--pitchy black with
the solemn pine. You may search far and wide for a picture so engaging as
Gerardmer when the sun shines, its gold-green slopes sprinkled with white
chalets, its red-roofed village clustered about a rustic church tower,
and at its feet the loveliest little lake in the world, from which rise
gently the fir-clad heights.
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