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In the Heart of the Vosges - And Other Sketches by a "Devious Traveller" by Matilda Betham-Edwards
page 9 of 211 (04%)
properties of its sparkling waters. Also in some degree for the sake of
urban distraction. The French mind when bent on holiday-making is social
in the extreme, and the day spent amid the forest nooks and murmuring
streams of Gerardmer winds up with music and dancing. One of the chief
attractions of the big hotel in which we are so wholesomely housed is
evidently the enormous salon given up after dinner to the waltz, country
dance, and quadrille. Our hostess with much ease and tact looks in,
paying her respects, to one visitor after another, and all is enjoyment
and mirth till eleven o'clock, when the large family party, for so our
French fellowship may be called, breaks up. These socialities, giving as
they do the amiable aspect of French character, will not perhaps
constitute an extra charm of Gerardmer in the eyes of the more morose
English tourist. After many hours spent in the open air most of us prefer
the quiet of our own rooms. The country, too, is so fresh and delicious
that we want nothing in the shape of social distraction. Drawing-room
amenities seem a waste of time under such circumstances. Nevertheless the
glimpses of French life thus obtained are pleasant, and make us realize
the fact that we are off the beaten track, living among French folks, for
the time separated from insular ways and modes of thought. Our fellowship
is a very varied and animated one. We number among the guests a member of
the French ministry--a writer on the staff of Figaro--a grandson of one
of the most devoted and unfortunate generals of the first Napoleon, known
as "the bravest of the brave," with his elegant wife--the head of one of
the largest commercial houses in eastern France--deputies, diplomats,
artists, with many family parties belonging to the middle and upper ranks
of society, a very strong Alsatian element predominating. Needless to add
that people make themselves agreeable to each other without any
introduction. For the time being at least distinctions are set aside, and
fraternity is the order of the day.

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