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In the Heart of the Vosges - And Other Sketches by a "Devious Traveller" by Matilda Betham-Edwards
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church itself, and those of another church, Des Cordeliers, close to the
Ducal Palace.

[Illustration: PROVINS, THE CITY WALLS]

Nancy is especially rich in monumental sculpture, but it is in the
cathedral that we are to be fairly enchanted by the marble statues of the
four doctors of the church--St. Augustine, St. Gregoire, St. Leon, and
St. Jerome. These are the work of Nicolas Drouin, a native of Nancy, and
formerly ornamented a tomb in the church of the Cordeliers just
mentioned. The physiognomy, expression, and pose of St. Augustine are
well worthy of a sculptor's closest study, but it is rather as a whole
than in detail that this exquisite statue delights the ordinary observer.
All four sculptures are noble works of art; the fine, dignified figure of
St. Augustine somehow takes strongest hold of the imagination. We would
fain return to it again and again, as indeed we would fain return to all
else we have seen in the fascinating city of Nancy. From Nancy by way of
Epinal we may easily reach the heart of the Vosges.

[Illustration: GERARDMER]

How sweet and pastoral are these cool resting-places in the heart of the
Vosges! Gerardmer and many another as yet unfrequented by the tourist
world, and unsophisticated in spite of railways and bathing seasons. The
Vosges has long been a favourite playground of our French neighbours,
although ignored by the devotees of Cook and Gaze, and within late years,
not a rustic spot possessed of a mineral spring but has become
metamorphosed into a second Plombieres. Gerardmer--"_Sans Gerardmer et
un peu Nancy, que serait la Lorraine?_" says the proverb--is resorted
to, however, rather for its rusticity and beauty than for any curative
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